Home Improvement

Thoughts & Stuff I Like When We Redid Our House

Floors Pre

Fixing Squeaky Floors

There are two ways to stop the squeaking - lubricate between the two surfaces that are rubbing, or stop the movement of the wood.

To lubricate squeaky floors you can use liquid graphite, talcum powder, or a spray (like WD 40). You may not be able to access the joint well enough to apply the spray.

If not, you can apply the liquid or powder over the joint between the wood and brush it in. Then wipe away the excess.

Stopping the movement of the wood is usually a more permanent solution. If you have access to the underside of the floor (as in an unfinished basement), locate the squeak by having someone walk over the floor while you listen.

You might determine that the squeak is being caused by nails that rub against the joists. If this is the case, cut them shorter. You might discover that there are not enough nails to hold the boards still.

In this event, ask the person you had walking the floor to mark the spot (with something removable, like tape, or simply by leaving any loose article on the spot). Then add finish nails (those without heads) and counter sink them into the floor.

Pre-drill the holes so that the wood doesn't split. You can then fill the countersunk holes with wood putty. This is available is several colors, one of which should be close enough to your floor to make the holes less noticeable.

Another cause of squeaky floors could be a gap between the joists and the sub floor. Simply wedge a shingle, or other material, into the opening, and glue it in place.

If this doesn't solve the problem, you'll have to buy a brace that fits around the joist and screws to the underside of the floor.

This might be referred to as a fender (depending on where you live). Assuming you have 3/4" thick sub floors and 3/4" floor boards (typical), make sure you use 1 1/4" screws - any longer and they might pop through the surface of the floor. The screws will pull the joist tight to the sub floor.

In the event that you can't find the braces, you can use 2" by 2" by 18" long pieces of lumber as nailers. These would first be screwed along the top edge of the joist (on both sides), and then screwed upwards, pulling the sub floor tight against the joist.

First adding glue to the surfaces that will be touching each other is highly recommended. (This solution works on squeaky stairs as well).

This type of repair is always easier if you pre-drill the screw holes with a power drill. Just be careful not to go through the surface of the floor.

If the house is so old that the joists are sagging, you can add support and strengthen the floor by adding a "bridge". This should be a 2" thick piece of lumber, at least 10" high, that fits between 2 joists, and gets screwed to them through the sides of the joists. Use 3" long screws for this (screws hold better than nails).

There is one circumstance when repairing squeaky floors that is a little tricky. If you don't have access underneath because you have a finished ceiling in your basement, and you have carpeting over the wood floor, it becomes a "touchy" job.

You can slit the rug several times where you identify the squeak, and locate the adjacent joist. These slits will prevent the rug fiber from getting wound up around the drill bit.

Then use trim screws (they have very small heads) to secure the floor to the joists, pre-drilling each hole. The screws should be drilled into the joists at angles - in a V pattern - in order to keep them from lifting in the future.

Once you finish with the screws, apply a little glue beneath the carpet and put a weight over the spot for 24 hours. This will secure the carpet and will prevent the slits from unraveling any further.

Of course, if you ever want to remove the carpet and have the wood floors showing, you will then have the added headache of removing the dried glue from the wood.

Another option is to use screws especially made for this purpose.  They are about 3" long and have a crease about 1" down from the head. 

They come with a "spacer" – you place the screw in the center of the spacer and screw it down until the screw head is even with the top of the spacer.  Then you snap the screw at the crease, which will be flush with the floor below the carpet.  This eliminates the need to slit the rug.

If you've tried all of these methods and still can't get rid of the squeaky floors, there's only one thing left to do - turn the music up louder so you can't hear the squeaking.

About the Author

Charles Gueli invites you to ask questions about squeaky floors, and take advantage of the resources on www.continuous-home-improvement-help.com , where guidance, information and support are always available – helping homeowners make better decisions.

How do you install a new floor in a old car without pre made floor pans?

HOW DO I SEAL THE METAL FROM WATER, HOW THICK DOES THE SHEET METAL NEED TO BE

if you,ll look around some one might actually make a replacement floor pan for the car,jc Whitney has some odd parts listed on their site like this,but if your doing it from scratch its kind of hard,you only want to cut out the part that's bad,nothing more,the bad thing about that is they will pop and crack when you set down in the car,and will also be wobbly,its better to cut as little as you have to when replacing these,this way you still have some of the structure there to help support them,and you can seal them up with auto body seam sealer this stuff works really good when putting in floor pans good luck hope this helps.

Solid Flooring - Pre-varnished or not | InterSCALA