Joist Hanger
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Joist Hanger
HOW TO BUILD A SHED FLOOR FRAME
Step A:Cut the Joists & Mark the Layout
- Cut the two rim joists and the common joists to length,making sure both ends are square.Note that rim joists run the full length ofthe floor,while common joists are 3" shorter than the floor width.
- Check the rim joists for crowning—arching along the narrowedges.Pick up one end of the board and hold it flat.With one eyeclosed,sight down the narrow edges.If the board arches,evenslightly,mark the edge on the top(convex)side of the arch.This isthe crowned edge and should always be installed facing up.If theboard is crowned in both directions,mark the edge with the mostsignificant crowning.
- Lay one rim joist flat on top of the other so the edges and endsare flush and the crowned edges are on the same side.Tack thejoists together with a few 8d nails.Turn the joists on-edge andmark the common joist layout on the top edges:Mark 1 1/2""and15 1/4" from the end of one joist.Then,measuring from the 151/4"mark,make a mark every 16"—at 32",48",64"and so on,tothe end of the board (if the plan calls for 24"spacing,make a markat 1 1/2"and 23 1/4",then every 24"from there).Make a mark 1 1/2"in from the remaining end.After eachmark,draw a small×designating to which side of the line the joistgoes—this is a handy framers'trick to prevent confusion.Thislayout ensures that the edges of a 4-ft.or 8-ft.board or sheet willfall,or break,on the center of a joist.
- Using a square,draw lines through each of the layout marks,carrying them over to the other rim joist.Draw Xs on the otherjoist,as well.Separate the joists and remove the nails.
Step B:Assemble & Square the Frame
- Check the two end joists for crowning,then nail them between the rim joists so their outside faces are flush with the rim joist endsand the top edges are flush.Drive two 16d galvanized commonnails through the rim joists and into the ends of the end joists,positioning the nails about 3/4"from the top and bottom edges.
- Install the remaining joists,making sure the crowned edges arefacing up.
- Check the frame for squareness by measuring diagonally from corner to corner:when the measurements are equal,the frame issquare.To adjust the frame,apply inward pressure to the cornerswith the longer measurement.
- If you're building the floor over skids,secure each joist to theoutside skids with a metal anchor and toenail the joists to theinternal skid(s)with 16d galvanized nails.
Step C:Install the Plywood Floor
- Lay a full sheet of 3/4"tongue-and-groove exterior-plywood over the frame so the groove side is flush with a rim joist and one end is flush with an end joist.Fasten the plywood to the joists with 8d galvanized nails driven every 6"along the edges and every 8"in the field of the sheet.Do not nail along the tongue edge until the nextrow of plywood is in place.
- Cut the second piece to fit next to the first,allowing for a 1/8"gap between the sheets.Install the second sheet with its outsideedges flush with the frame.
- Start the next row with a full sheet(ripped to width,ifnecessary).Install the sheet starting from the corner opposite thefirst sheet,so the joints between rows are offset.Make sure thetongue-and-groove joint is tight;if necessary,use a wood block anda sledgehammer to close the joint.
- Cut and install the remaining piece of plywood.Mark the joist layout onto the header or beam and use a square todraw parallel lines that represent the outer edges of the joist.Position the hanger with one side flush to a joist outline,and fastenit with joist hanger nails(1 1/2")or 10d or 16d galvanized commonnails.Using a scrap piece of joist as a spacer,close the hanger around thespacer.Check the position of the spacer's top edge,then nail thefree side of the hanger in place.To install the joist,set it completely into the hanger and fasten itthrough the hanger holes with joist nails.
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What distance cross bracing my floor joist is recommended? Maybe need an additional support?
I'm framing in a garage floor to raise up the level to the rest of the house. I'm using 2x8's around the perimeter and joist hangers to connect the joists (2x8's). The room is 11 x 17 with the joists running 11'. I need to add solid block cross bracing to stiffen the system. Do I need anything near the ends or are the joist hangers sufficient? Should I just split the difference for the centers (5' 6")? Also, I believe 2x8's are fine for 11' span 16" oc. for non load bearing use, am I correct or do I need some sort of center bracing for support? Thanks in advance.
11' span is not excessive. Depending on how you plan to load the floor (foot traffic and furniture) it should be ok but if it were I, I would probably add a cross beam at the mid point. If close enough to the conc. slab you might just use concrete blocks. It's a small price to pay for insuring that you won't have movement when you deck the joists.
Deck construction 4 -- joist hangers