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Sunflex partial dentures from a dentist's point of view

Thousands of dentists and patients around the world have made the switch to Sunflex® Partial Dentures. Denser than other flexible partials, Sunflex has the perfect degree of flexibility, is stain-resistant, and does not discolor, warp or become brittle -- providing maximum retention, stability and aesthetic appeal.

Sunflex is an excellent implant healing partial and can be used as a bilateral or unilateral denture (flipper). For cases with a free end saddle or where the anterior teeth are missing, it can be used in combination with metal framework for enhanced stability.

If necessary, Sunflex chairside adjustments can be easily made with tools that were especially designed for the Sunflex nylon thermoplastic resin. Teeth and clasps can be added to the partial at a later time without demarcation lines, and it can also be relined or rebased in the lab.

Understanding the distinctive features of Sunflex in comparison to other partial dentures and how they translate into preparation procedures and adjustment techniques is vital to the success of a Sunflex case.

PREPARATION

No tooth preparation is required; just send to the laboratory a master cast poured promptly and carefully from an alginate impression along with opposing model and bite registration.

SHADE SELECTION

Sunflex translucency readily adapts to a variety of natural tissue shades and is available in five tones (Crystal Clear, Light Pink, Pink, Medium Meharry and Dark Meharry). Sun Dental Labs will provide complimentary shade guides upon request.

IMPRESSION

The best type of impression material to use is alginate. The powder should be gently stirred from the bottom of the container to the top to redistribute the heavier elements that control shrinkage in the impression.

INSERTION

Immediately prior to inserting it in the patient's mouth, immerse the Sunflex partial in very hot tap water for approximately two (2) minutes. Once the partial cools to a tolerable temperature, gently insert it into the patient's mouth. This first step is very important since it allows for a very smooth insertion and a good adaptation with the natural tissues in the mouth. In case of clasp tightness, it may be loosened slightly by being immersed in hot water for 30 seconds and bent outwards while underneath cold tap water. If a clasp requires tightening, follow the same procedure, bending it inward.

ADJUSTMENTS

If further adjustments are necessary after insertion, the Sunflex Tool Kit is recommended. The cross-cut carbide burr is used to grind down edges if needed. For effective reduction of the periphery edge, relief in tissue-contacting areas and to ease tightness or difficulty in insertion and removal, use the green silicone-carbide abrasive point, which permits fine adjustments to be made with a minimum degree of roughness on the surface (Figure 2). You may also use the green and brown rubber point. Set your

handpiece on the lowest speed and use fast, light scraping back-and-forth motions to reduce the area, continuously varying the contact point. Too much pressure may burn or distort the restoration. After reducing the area, use the brown rubber point at slow speed with rapid back-and-forth movements to rubberize, smooth, and pre-polish the surface. Note that fibers that appear during grinding can be removed with a very sharp blade.

POLISHING

Repolishing is often not necessary when the green point is used properly. If necessary, it can be done with coarse pumice and brown Tripoli using a soft rag wheel. A high luster can be restored to the surface using an acrylic polishing compound following the Tripoli application.

ADDING TEETH AND CLASPS

All tooth, clasp, or saddle additions must be completed in the laboratory using Sunflex resin. Make sure the base of the partial is completely clean. Take an alginate impression with the partial in place in the mouth, pour up immediately, and send to the laboratory with instructions.

RELINE/REBASE

Relines are relatively infrequent with Sunflex because of its ability to adapt to the subtle changes in the mouth. If a reline is indicated, simply remove all adhesives from the tissue side of the partial and take a rubber base wash impression in a closed mouth position. Then take an alginate pickup impression, pour immediately, and send to the laboratory. Do not separate the partial from the model. The partial will be jumped into a new base by Sun Dental Labs.

About the Author

Stephanie L. Jones is an experienced marketing director working in the dental industry at Sun Dental Labs in Clearwater, Florida. She can be reached at stephanie.jones@sundentallabs.com.

Which type of circular saw blade?

I would like 1 Rip cut style blade and 1 Crosscut style blade. I have heard carbide are good but dont know what brand makes a good saw blade. Also, how many teeth should I look for in each style of blade. I'am starting to get into woodworking and want to make very simple stuff for now and want the right blade for the right style of cut. Thanks!

Yes a carbide blade would be the best to buy for a circular saw, but I wouldn't really consider a circular saw as a wood workers tool.

It's more a construction workers tool, because no matter which blade you use it will sill be rough sawn, the amount of teeth will only make the saw cut easier (less wear and tear on the motor) not so much clearer and unless you'll be doing a lot of ripper down of material it won't make much of a difference to you.

I wouldn't be using a circular saw to cut baseboards, door jambs, architraves, flooring, kitchen cabinet and so on where the cut needed to be neat, I'd use a drop/compound or table saw. (You can use it for these jobs but you wouldn't get a consistent cut)

I'd buy a second hand one of these (it wouldn't be much more of a cost than a better blade, but much more useful) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Makita_laminate_trimmer.jpg and fit it with a finishing bit. Cut the material a little bigger then trim back to the line, this would be much better than buying a better blade.

In short having a better blade on a circular saw won't make you a better wood worker, buying better finishing tools will.

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